A Guide to the Wats of Vientiane

    by Anna-Brita Rosell

There are so many wats in Vientiane that wherever you live you are never far from one. Perhaps on your first night you were awakened at four o'clock in the morning by the mighty boom of a big drum. It came from a nearby wat and it summoned the monks to get up for morning prayer. The drum is beaten again at six o'clock. After a while, looking out of your window you can see the yellow robed monks coming one after another, the oldest first, carrying their alms bowls. They are on their daily round for food, and people in the neighborhood give them what they need.

You can see monks everywhere in town, and because Buddhists believe that Buddha was the first human being to find the true way of life, they trust his followers, the monks, to teach them to live peacefully and happily together. Many families have a special monk, who comes to them when they need help or advice. Others go to the Wat to see one of the monks there. The monks are consulted on practically everything, from simple matters to important decisions concerning a person's or a family's future.

For centuries monks contributed extensively to the education of the people, as the only existing schools were in the wats. This is no longer true, but even today they play an active part in government campaigns to eliminate illiteracy and to promote health care. In some cases monks provide the premises for primary schools in the wat itself, although these are now run by the Lao government.

Some monks are much trusted for their knowledge of traditional medicines, and for being able to cure many kinds of pains and illnesses. To relieve the pain of others is pious work, and much appreciated by laymen.

For a foreigner it is interesting to visit the wats, to experience the peace and tranquillity of their parks, and to study their architecture, as well as their artifacts, and their paintings. If you stay in Vientiane long enough you can follow the ancient Buddhist calendar with its different festivals, celebrated in the wat. Perhaps you may also want to join in the celebrations.

How to visit a wat

If you want to look at a wat without entering the sim, you may go at any time, though if you go at 11 a.m., the monks might be having their meal. Monks are subject to certain restrictions, e.g., they are not allowed to be touched by a woman or look a woman straight in the eyes. If you are a woman, DO NOT hand anything directly to a monk. The object should be passed via a man or put down for the monk to pick up.

To show respect when you talk to a monk, you should bend your knees slightly and keep your hands together in front of your chest. It is respectful in Laos to have your head lower than the other person's, and bending your knees shows that you are trying to do that.

Take off your shoes whenever you enter a building in a wat.

Most "sims" are kept locked because of the risk of burglary or damage. They are normally open at ceremonies or bouns to give the faithful an opportunity to put their offerings in front of the Buddha and to light their candles and incense sticks. However, if you visit a wat with a Lao friend, he can ask for the key to open the door. Visit by a group should be arranged beforehand.

The "sim" is a sacred place. Sit on the floor in front of the Buddha with your feet pointing away from the image, relax, and give yourself up to the peace of the room.

A small donation of about 200 kip is appropriate. There is a donation box for that purpose. Sit down or kneel when you put your money in the box.

For ceremonies all Lao dress in their best clothes. A woman wears a beautiful sin and a shawl to match, and gifts to the monks are kept in a special bowl, sometimes made of silver. That is the way of showing respect for the occasion. Visitors should be careful to dress appropriately, women with shoulders and upper arms covered, and men in trousers. Shorts and T-shirts are not suitable.

Always remember to remove your shoes, sit with your feet pointed away from the images, dress modestly and leave a small donation. If a woman, do not touch a monk or look him in the eye. Do not obstruct the way of the faithful who are arriving or leaving.

The Saunas

Sometimes there is a sauna in a wat. Even as a foreigner you can go there when you feel tired, under stress or have pains. One such sauna is at Wat Sokpaluang. It is operated by nuns. You make an appointment beforehand, and when you arrive with some friends the sauna will be ready for you. The air is fragrant with different kinds of wood and healing herbs, which are burnt. After each session in the sauna you sit on the veranda and drink tea. If you wish, a massage is available. The garden around you is peaceful, the nuns perform their tasks quietly and, in the afternoon, the drum summons both nuns and monks to prayer. It is an uplifting experience, and you will go home refreshed in both body and soul.

There is another well-recommended sauna run by the monks of Wat Sriamphorn. See the Vientiane Guide map of the Sisathanak district for the location of these two wats.

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