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VIENTIANE
by Joe Cummings
Vientiane is three entities: province (population 290,000), prefecture (180,000) and city (140,000). Located on a bend in the Mekong River, it was originally one of the early Lao river-valley fiefdoms or muang that were consolidated around the time Europe was leaving the Dark Ages. The Lao that settled here chose the area because the surrounding alluvial plains are so incredibly fertile. Early on, the Vientiane muang prospered and enjoyed a fragile sovereignty.
At various times over the 10 or so centuries of its history, however, Vientiane lost its standing as an independent kingdom and was controlled by the Burmese, Siamese, Vietnamese and Khmer. When the kingdom of Lan Xang (Million Elephants) was established in the 14th century by the Khmer-supported conqueror Fa Ngum, it was originally centered in Muang Sawa (Luang Prabang), but by the early 16th century the capital had been moved to Vientiane. When Laos became a French protectorate in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Vientiane was named the capital city and has remained so under communist rule today.
The name can be translated as Sandalwood City or Moon City and is actually pronounced Wieng Chan ('Wieng' means City or Place with Walls in Lao; 'Chan' is the Lao pronunciation of either 'Chandana', Sandalwood, or 'Chandra', Moon, both Sanskrit). The French gave the city its common Roman spelling. It is one of three classic Indochinese cities (including Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh) that conjure up images of exotic Eurasian settings. For the most part, Vientiane lives up to these images, with its intriguing mix of Lao, Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, French, US and Soviet influences. Of the three capitals, Vientiane is by far the most laid-back in atmosphere.
Although Vientiane is the largest city in the country, it's still small enough to get to know easily. Parts of town are really quite attractive, particularly in the older section of town along the Mekong River. Tree-lined boulevards and old temples impart an atmosphere of timelessness in spite of passing traffic (which is never very heavy).