| Mekong Express Home | - Laos Home - | Editor for Mekong Express |
 |
 |
 |
LUANG PRABANG: PEACEFUL PARADISE
by John B. Haseman
My first thought upon arrival at Luang Prabang was a flash of whimsy: was this a Southeast Asian Shangri-la, or was it a highlands Brigadoon half way around the world from its Scottish namesake? The lovely former royal capital of Laos is, like the fictional Shangri-la, nestled in a mountain valley and it possesses the air of mystery of that fabled mountain valley.
And, like the village in the musical Brigadoon, Luang Prabang looks like time has hidden its charms from the outside world for years, especially in comparison to the bustling, polluted capitals of modern Asia. Perhaps reality is a bit more prosaic, but nonetheless Luang Prabang is a bit magical and it certainly is a delightful place to visit.
Luang Prabang is only accessible by Lao Aviation flights from Vientiane or by river speedboat from Chiang Khong in northern Thailand. The flight from Laos' capital city crosses jungle-clad mountains and deep valleys before landing in Luang Prabang, nestled along the Mekong River in a lovely mountain-girt valley. The most picturesque places to stay are upgraded French-era villas turned into small boutique-style hotels in the "downtown" area of Luang Prabang. A newer hotel on the outskirts of town sits on a low hill with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountain peaks, misty in morning fog and orange and pink in evening sunsets. Hotels in town are more convenient for strolls through quiet streets to the many Buddhist temples and to the banks of the deep-red Mekong River.
Luang Prabang was the royal center for a series of kingdoms as far back as the 14th century even though the seat of government moved to Vientiane long ago. With the abolishment of the Lao monarchy in 1975, the town of 20,000 people reverted to its status as a sleepy provincial capital. Its most important attractions are a series of stunningly beautiful Buddhist temples and its superb riverside setting in a natural bowl of surrounding mountains. Visitors with a few days to spend should also consider the wonderful speedboat trip up the Mekong River to the Pak Ou caves, and a bumpy truck ride through lovely countryside to the Khoung Sy waterfall.
Luang Prabang's major temples bear a resemblance to Thai or Burmese temples. Their most distinctive features are swooping eaves that drop closer to the ground than is common in Thailand, with pronounced stepped roof lines and, for those with royal lineage, distinctive roof finials. Important temples include Wat Wi Xun, originally built in 1513 and thus the oldest operational temple in Luang Prabang; the That Pathum (Lotus Stupa) known familiarly as That Mak Mo (Watermelon Stupa) because of its odd spherical shape; and Wat Aham, formerly the seat of the Lao Supreme Patriarch.
The highlight is Luang Prabang's most important and beautiful temple, Wat Xieng Thong (Golden City), which sits at the tip of the peninsula formed at the junction of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. The main temple was built in 1560, and has stunning painted lacquerware and wooden walls and doors. The compound includes two small chapels covered with inlaid stone and lacquer mural decorations of Lao village life. Another major building houses the royal funeral chariots and funeral urns for the former Lao royal family.
Close to the center of town are Wat Mai and the National Museum. Wat Mai is notable for its extraordinarily carved gilt lacquer exterior doors. The National Museum is housed in the former royal palace and exhibits possessions of former royalty, paintings of many former kings, and a collection of valuable Buddhist images and artifacts. Visitors will note a considerable contrast between the luxuriously decorated state rooms, and the plain and assuming residential section.
Rising directly across from the Museum is Phu Si hill, housing several small temples on its slopes. The paved path and stairs to the peak rewards the energetic climber with beautiful 360 degree views of the city, the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers and the surrounding mountains.
The speedboat tour up the Mekong River to Pak Ou caves is an enjoyable experience. The river journey itself takes about three hours (faster returning), passing occasional riverside villages, including one that specializes in producing the fiery local rice whisky called "Tao lag". Samples are free and one can purchase bottles for later consumption.
The Pak Ou Caves are renown for their huge collection of Buddha images, many dating back hundreds of years. There are two caves at Pak Ou, one rising directly from the river and a second higher on the cliff side. They contain thousands of Buddha images, most of the Luang Prabang standing style.
The visit to the Khoung Sy waterfall is an adventure. Travel is by the Laotian version of an up-country Thai "baht-bus" with heavy duty springs (which don't absorb much of the jolt). The wretched road passes through attractive rural countryside, alternately in rice cultivation or jungle hillsides, and ends at the village of Tha Pe, which contains several unique waterwheel powered rice mills. Khoung Sy is lovely, with water plunging in many channels over a travertine cliff into a turquoise blue-green pool.
There is an irresistible combination of languor, beauty, history, and an unspoiled atmosphere of quiet in Luang Prabang that contrasts strongly with the bustle of Asia's big cities. A visit to Laos is an ideal way to experience "the old days" of quiet and historical beauty while still enjoying a comfortable vacation among friendly people happy to welcome visitors.
How To Visit Laos
Since opening its borders to modern tourism in 1989, Lao Tourism has done a commendable job of showing the country to visitors. Many travel agencies can arrange package tours to the country, or visitors can make their own arrangements after arrival in Vientiane. Visas are required, but are available on arrival at Vientiane's Wattay Airport or at the Lao side of the Friendship Bridge across the Mekong River.