A short 40 minutes by car and a 20 minute boat ride down the Nam Ngum River takes you to a distant world of tropical forests and wilderness. A world far removed from the sputtering, growing capital of Vientiane. The world of Lao Pako.

Lao Pako is a unique, environment-friendly retreat built high on the river bank, over-looking the serene Nam Ngum river. An enchanting realm where nature abounds among wondorous sights and sounds. Lao Pako’s vision is to be a kind of green resort’, incorporating the ideals of ecotourism. The resort buildings are made from natural native materials and trees of the area and are constructed using local Lao carpentry techniques.

The resort presently has a total of 17 beds: a Lao style longhouse with three double rooms with shower/toilet (15,000 kip/US$ 19); a seven bed dormitory style room for backpackers and other budget travellers (5,000 kip/US$6); and for those couples or families who desire more privacy and space, there are separate bungalows available (20,000k! $25). All the buildings have wide verandhas which look out over the Nam Ngum River. The private bungalows have especially magnificent views of the surrounding bush and sunset.

There is a tropical style bar which functions as the hub and meeting place for guests - an ideal place for a cool drink and watching the sunset. The other place to be is at the open air restuarant with its scenic view of the river. The retreat is known for its cuisine. Its lunch and dinner buffets, which display a wide variety of Lao and western dishes, are especially popular. Food prices at Lao Pako are higher than Lao food restuarants in Vientiane as it is transported by boat from Som Sa Mai.

The resort was established by four foreign investors from Austria, Germany, Sweden and Finland who wanted to create an environmentally friendly international resort outside Vientiane. The 50 hectares of land is leased from Burapha, a Swedish reforestation company working in Laos.

Lao Pako was designed and is managed by Walter Pfabigan. Construction on Lao Pako began two years ago and since last year the resort has begun basic operations. However, as there was no precedence for such an outdoor resort in Laos, beaureaucratic spaghetti and red tape delayed it and it took Pfabigan nad Burapha over a year to finally acquire a Iicence from the government. Lao Pako was officially opened to the public in May this year.

Lao Pako has forged its own niche within the wilds of the Lao forest. When Walter Pfabigan first came to the site there were no trees or for that matter any sort of vegetation. The land was barren. Today, Pfabigan and Burapha have replanted native plants and trees, grafting it once again into the mosaic of the forest.

If you are looking for a karaokes, discos and the like, Lao Pako is not for you. Stay in Vientiane or Bangkok. But if you are looking for a nature retreat, Lao Pako is the place to be. It is for those who want to recharge their batteries and get away from the hustle-bustle of the city. The beauty of the retreat is that it is far enough away from Vientiane and yet close enough for a day’s trip.

The retreat has a small library of books and magazines besides facilities for chess, backgammon, cards and darts for those who want to really take it easy. There are also easy nature walks in the immediate area, a spring-fed waterfall where you can cool off and a Lao-style herbal sauna.

For those more actively inclined there are trekking tracks, bamboo raft running, boat river trips, visits, to neighbouring villages, swimming and inner tubing in Nam Ngum. As also the tennis and badminton courts. For children there is horseback riding and a children’s petting zoo in the making.

There are two ways of reaching Lao Pako fron Vientiane. One is by car - it takes about 40 minutes to reach Som Sa Mai and from there on to Lao Pako which despite the muddy road is just 40 minutes away. In the rainy season, the road from Som Sa Mai to Lao Pako is quite bad and a four wheel drive would be necessary.

The other way is by boat fron Som Sa Mai. On entering Som Sa Mai look for the green and yellow sign that says ‘Boats to Lao Pako’ - park next to Mr. Peng’s shop and he will ferry you across. There is also a public bus from Vientiane to Som Sa Mai for 350 kip.

The boat is a nice 20 minute ride down the river and costs 2,000 k per trip and seats seven. Arrange with the boatman when you want to be picked up and he will return to get you.

Many come to Lao Pako for a day’s trip or to savour the weekend buffet lunch. The campfire and barbeque facilities are particularly attractive to them.

A word of warning - Lao Pako is only for those wanting to relax amidst the splendours of nature, in a natural environment, in the middle of a tropical forest. So don’t expect air conditioning. Besides, most of the year it is cool enough without it. The TV and the radio find no place for themselves in this wilderness retreat. The only sounds you will hear are the serene sounds of nature. Glass lanterns and candles illuminate the restaurant, small kerosene tikki torches light the path back to your room and the rooms are lit by 12 volt batteries.

Lao Pako is unique and is for the adventurous as well as the laid-back. It is a back to the basics exercise. No motor bikes, no loud music... just the sound of crickets and thunder or a longboat engine in the distance. Relax, recharge, discover Lao Pako and yourself.

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