Every foreigner coming to Laos usually expresses interest in sailing north to Luang Prabang or south to Savannakhet on the Mekong. Yet, its easier said than done. For one, due to extremely low water - some say it was 40 per cent below normal this year - the river south hasn’t been navigable until recently. Boats steering tor the southern provinces resumed their regular schedules only after the middle of summer.

Going upstream, only the smallest craft remained in the water through August. Weather experts said this year’s drought in adjacent northern Thailand was the worst in 25 years, and that the scarcity of precipitation would continue throughout the coming winier. Thus large craft were unable to steam upriver anywhere.

Of course, almost anything can be arranged for a price - one enterprising boatman recently offered his boat and services to Luang Pra bang to a foreigner for US$200 - but the best way to approach such a unique adventure is to contact any one of the numerous travel agents in Vientiane. Travel permits are necessary but obtainable for tourists, as a rule, through licensed travel agencies.

It’s easy to find out what’s running downstream (and when) by calling the office of Somphong Chounlamany, the director of the River Transport Company, at 5298 or 5892. Running north, call the Northern River Transportation Company at 5588 or 9418.